Diamond Education
Everything you need to understand diamonds before you buy one. Built for clients who want to make confident, informed decisions about one of the most meaningful purchases of their lives.
Discuss Your Diamond With UsYour Complete Guide
Understanding diamonds is the first step to choosing the right one.
At Sakaris Jewelers, we believe an educated client makes a confident client. This guide covers everything you need to know, from the anatomy of a diamond to the difference between natural and lab-grown, diamond shapes, certificates, and the factors that truly determine how a diamond looks on the hand.
We use this guide during our consultations, both in our Naples studio and virtually. Feel free to follow along, take notes, and bring your questions. There are no wrong ones.
Foundation
The Anatomy of a Diamond
Before understanding the 4 Cs, it helps to understand the physical structure of a diamond. Every diamond has the same basic anatomy, and knowing these terms will make every other part of this guide easier to follow.
The table is the flat top facet. The crown is the upper portion above the girdle. The girdle is the thin edge separating the crown from the pavilion. The pavilion is the lower portion that reflects light back through the top. The culet is the bottom point. The depth is the total height from table to culet, expressed as a percentage of the diameter. These proportions directly affect how much light the diamond reflects and how brilliant it appears.
Interactive Tool — Powered by GIA
The Most Important C
Cut
Of all the 4 Cs, cut has the greatest impact on a diamond's beauty. A diamond can have excellent color and clarity, but if the cut is poor, the diamond will look dull. Cut is not about the shape of the diamond. It refers to how well the diamond's facets interact with light.
A well-cut diamond reflects light from facet to facet and back through the top of the stone. This creates the brilliance, fire, and scintillation that makes a diamond come alive. A poorly cut diamond leaks light through the bottom or sides, resulting in a flat, lifeless appearance.
At Sakaris Jewelers, we work exclusively with Excellent cut diamonds for round brilliants, with Excellent polish and Excellent symmetry. This is known as Triple Excellent, or 3EX, and it is the highest cut grade GIA assigns. We will not recommend a stone with lower cut grades regardless of how attractive the price may appear.
GIA Cut Grades for Round Brilliants
Note: GIA only assigns cut grades to round brilliant diamonds. For fancy shapes such as oval, emerald, or pear, cut quality is assessed through proportions and light performance rather than a formal grade.
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The Second C
Color
Diamond color is graded on a scale from D to Z, where D is completely colorless and Z contains a visible yellow or brown tint. The less color a diamond has, the more rare and valuable it is.
In practice, the color difference between adjacent grades is extremely subtle and nearly impossible to detect with the naked eye when a diamond is set in a ring. The differences become visible when diamonds are compared side by side on a white background under controlled lighting.
For natural diamonds, we typically work in the G-H color range. These grades are considered near-colorless and appear white in virtually any setting, while offering significantly better value than D-F stones that most clients cannot distinguish in real life.
For lab-grown diamonds, we work in the D-F color range. Because lab diamonds are more affordable per carat than natural diamonds, reaching for higher color grades is achievable without dramatically impacting the overall budget.
GIA Color Scale
Metal choice affects perceived color. Yellow gold makes near-colorless diamonds appear whiter. White gold and platinum show color differences more clearly.
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The Third C
Clarity
Clarity refers to the presence of internal characteristics called inclusions and external characteristics called blemishes. These are natural birthmarks formed during the crystal growth process millions of years ago. No two diamonds have identical clarity characteristics, which makes every natural diamond truly unique.
GIA grades clarity on a scale from Flawless to Included. The key distinction for most buyers is whether inclusions are visible to the naked eye. A diamond with minor inclusions visible only under 10x magnification looks identical to a Flawless diamond to anyone looking at the ring on your finger.
For natural diamonds, we typically work in the VS1-VS2 range (Very Slightly Included). Inclusions at this grade are not visible to the naked eye under any circumstances and require magnification to find even by a trained gemologist. This range offers the ideal balance of quality and value. For lab-grown diamonds, we work in the VVS range.
GIA Clarity Scale
Eye-clean is the standard that matters most. A VS2 that is eye-clean in person is superior to a VVS2 with an unfavorable inclusion placement that catches the eye.
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The Fourth C
Carat Weight
Carat is a unit of weight, not size. One carat equals 0.2 grams. While larger diamonds generally appear bigger, two diamonds of identical carat weight can look very different in size depending on their cut, shape, and depth.
A diamond cut too deep will hide weight in the pavilion and appear smaller than its carat weight suggests. A well-proportioned diamond maximizes its surface area, appearing as large as possible for its weight.
Carat weight has a significant impact on price. Diamonds at milestone weights such as 1.00ct, 1.50ct, and 2.00ct carry a price premium simply because of demand at those thresholds. A diamond weighing 0.96ct may cost meaningfully less than a 1.00ct stone while appearing visually identical.
This is one area where working with a knowledgeable jeweler gives you a genuine advantage. We help clients find stones that maximize perceived size without paying unnecessary premiums.
Important Carat Considerations
Carat vs Visual Size
A 1ct oval diamond has a larger surface area than a 1ct round. Shape choice affects how big a diamond appears on the hand.
Depth Percentage
Depth percentage is the height of the diamond as a proportion of its diameter. A stone with too high a depth percentage hides weight and appears smaller.
Just Under Milestones
Stones just under 0.50, 1.00, 1.50, and 2.00 carats offer significant savings with no visible size difference.
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Finding Your Stone
Diamond Shapes
Each diamond shape has its own personality, visual character, and impact on how a ring looks on the hand. There is no universally correct choice, only the one that is right for the person wearing it.
Round Brilliant
The most popular diamond shape in the world and the benchmark for all others. 58 facets engineered for maximum light return, brilliance, and fire. The round brilliant consistently produces the most sparkle of any shape. It is timeless, universally flattering, and always in demand.
Best for: Maximum brilliance • Any setting style • Timeless appealOval
The oval is one of the most sought-after shapes today for good reason. Its elongated form creates the illusion of a larger diamond and makes fingers appear longer and more slender. Oval diamonds offer excellent brilliance close to that of a round, with a more distinctive, modern feel. Pay close attention to the ratio and the bow-tie effect when selecting an oval.
Best for: Finger elongation • Modern look • Larger appearance per caratEmerald Cut
Rectangular with cropped corners and a stepped facet pattern known as a step cut. Rather than brilliant sparkle, the emerald cut produces dramatic flashes of light and dark called the "hall of mirrors" effect. It is a sophisticated, understated shape that rewards high clarity and color grades since its open table makes inclusions more visible.
Best for: Elegant restraint • Architectural look • Unique personalityPear
A hybrid between the round and marquise, the pear has a rounded base that tapers to a point. Worn with the point toward the fingertips, it creates a dramatic elongating effect. Pears require careful attention to symmetry and the bow-tie effect. When well-cut, a pear is one of the most striking shapes available.
Best for: Dramatic look • Unique silhouette • Finger elongationRadiant Cut
The radiant combines the rectangular shape of the emerald with the brilliant facet pattern of the round, producing exceptional sparkle in a rectangular outline. It is one of the most forgiving shapes in terms of color and clarity visibility. Radiants can range from nearly square to notably elongated depending on ratio preferences.
Best for: Maximum sparkle • Rectangular shape • Versatile proportionsCushion Cut
Cushion cuts have rounded corners and larger facets that give them a soft, romantic appearance. They have been popular for centuries and remain one of the most requested shapes. Cushions vary significantly in how square or elongated they are, and in their facet pattern which affects whether they produce a crushed ice or chunky sparkle effect.
Best for: Romantic look • Vintage feel • Soft silhouetteMarquise
The marquise is the most elongating of all diamond shapes. Its pointed ends and football-like outline create a dramatic, regal look that maximizes perceived size per carat more than any other shape. Symmetry is critical for marquise diamonds, as any imbalance between the two points is immediately visible. The bow-tie effect should be evaluated carefully.
Best for: Maximum elongation • Bold statement • Vintage glamourPrincess Cut
The princess is a square shape with pointed corners and a brilliant facet pattern. It is the second most popular diamond shape after the round, offering a modern geometric look with excellent sparkle. The pointed corners require protective prongs to prevent chipping. Princess cuts tend to hide color well due to their facet pattern.
Best for: Modern geometric look • Square silhouette • Strong brillianceAsscher Cut
The Asscher is essentially a square emerald cut with a distinctly vintage character. Its deeply cropped corners and stepped facets produce a mesmerizing concentric square pattern when viewed from above. Like the emerald cut, the Asscher's open table makes clarity an important consideration. It is a bold, architectural choice for the client who wants something truly distinctive.
Best for: Art Deco aesthetic • Vintage character • Architectural eleganceProportions & Appearance
Ratios, Depth & What Makes a Diamond Look Bigger
Two diamonds with identical carat weight can look dramatically different in size and appearance depending on their proportions. Understanding ratios and depth is one of the most practical pieces of knowledge a diamond buyer can have.
Length-to-Width Ratio
The length-to-width ratio is calculated by dividing the longer measurement of a diamond by its shorter measurement. A ratio of 1.00 produces a perfectly square stone. As the ratio increases, the stone becomes more elongated.
This is entirely a matter of personal preference, but understanding what ratio you are drawn to before shopping saves significant time. Some clients want a dramatic elongated oval. Others prefer something closer to square. Neither is right or wrong, only personal.
Popular Ratio Ranges by Shape
| Shape | Classic | Elongated |
|---|---|---|
| Oval | 1.30 – 1.50 | 1.50+ |
| Marquise | 1.75 – 2.00 | 2.00+ |
| Radiant | 1.00 – 1.05 | 1.20+ |
| Cushion | 1.00 – 1.05 | 1.15+ |
| Emerald | 1.30 – 1.50 | 1.50+ |
| Pear | 1.45 – 1.60 | 1.75+ |
What Makes a Diamond Look Bigger
Choose an Elongated Shape
Oval, marquise, pear, and elongated cushion or radiant diamonds have a larger surface area than round diamonds of the same carat weight, making them appear significantly bigger on the hand.
Avoid Excessive Depth
A diamond with a depth percentage that is too high hides weight below the girdle where it cannot be seen. Optimal depth maximizes the visible surface area of the stone from above.
Thin Band Settings
A delicate, thin band draws the eye to the center stone and makes it appear larger by contrast. Wide bands visually compete with the diamond and reduce its perceived size.
Pave or Halo Settings
Pave diamonds along the band or a halo of small diamonds around the center stone both create a larger visual impression without the cost of a larger center stone.
Just Under Milestone Weights
A 0.96ct diamond looks identical to a 1.00ct but can cost noticeably less. Avoiding milestone weights is one of the smartest budget decisions a buyer can make.
Table Percentage
A well-proportioned table percentage maximizes the visible top surface of the diamond. Too small a table reduces the apparent size. Too large reduces brilliance. Balance is key.
Often Overlooked
Fluorescence
Fluorescence refers to a diamond's tendency to emit a soft glow when exposed to ultraviolet light. Approximately 25-35% of diamonds exhibit some degree of fluorescence, most commonly blue.
In colorless and near-colorless diamonds (D-H), strong blue fluorescence can cause the stone to appear hazy, milky, or oily in sunlight and certain lighting conditions. This is because natural sunlight contains UV rays that trigger the fluorescence effect, creating a visual haziness that no amount of cleaning will fix.
Diamonds with fluorescence are less desirable in the market, which means they sell at a discount compared to non-fluorescent stones of the same grade. While this price reduction can seem attractive, the trade-off is a stone that may look less brilliant in real-world conditions.
If you ever need or wish to sell or upgrade your diamond in the future, fluorescence will negatively impact resale value and significantly limit your buyer pool. Industry professionals and knowledgeable buyers avoid fluorescent stones.
Our Position at Sakaris Jewelers
We avoid fluorescence entirely when sourcing diamonds for our clients. A non-fluorescent stone at the same grade will always look better in person and hold its value more reliably. We do not consider the price discount a worthwhile trade-off for a piece meant to last a lifetime.
Fluorescence Grades
We will write a deeper dive into fluorescence in our Journal. In the meantime, feel free to ask us about fluorescence during your consultation. We are happy to show you the difference in person.
Coming Soon: Fluorescence Explained →One of the Biggest Decisions
Natural vs Lab-Grown Diamonds
This is one of the most important decisions a diamond buyer will make, and we believe strongly in giving clients the honest information they need to make the right choice for themselves. We offer both options without pushing either.
Natural Diamonds
Rare. Formed by the earth. Irreplaceable.
Natural diamonds formed deep within the earth under extreme heat and pressure over billions of years. No two are identical. Each stone carries a unique combination of characteristics that makes it genuinely one of a kind.
Natural diamonds have been the symbol of lasting love and commitment for generations. They hold long-term value, are traded on established markets, and carry a rarity that lab-grown diamonds fundamentally cannot replicate.
For clients who value the story behind the stone, the rarity of a natural diamond, and the long-term investment characteristics, natural is the right choice.
Our Natural Diamond Standard
GIA certified • G-H color • VS1-VS2 clarity • Excellent cut • No fluorescence • Hand-sourced for brilliance
Lab-Grown Diamonds
Real diamonds. Modern choice.
Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds. They are chemically, physically, and optically identical to natural diamonds. The difference is origin: lab diamonds are grown in a controlled environment in weeks rather than formed over billions of years underground.
Lab-grown diamonds are significantly more affordable per carat than natural diamonds, which allows clients to choose a larger stone, higher grades, or a more elaborate setting within the same budget.
For clients who prioritize size and quality within a given budget, and who are comfortable with a modern origin story rather than the rarity and tradition of a mined stone, lab-grown is an excellent choice.
Our Lab Diamond Standard
IGI certified • D-F color • VVS clarity • Excellent cut • No fluorescence • Personally reviewed
We go deeper on this topic in our journal. A full comparison covering pricing, resale, value trends, and how to decide is coming soon.
Why It Matters
GIA vs IGI — Diamond Certificates Explained
A diamond certificate, also called a grading report, is an independent assessment of a diamond's characteristics by a gemological laboratory. It is one of the most important documents in a diamond purchase and it should always come from a trusted, reputable laboratory.
GIA — Gemological Institute of America
The Gold Standard for Natural Diamonds
GIA invented diamond grading. They created the 4 Cs system, the D-Z color scale, and the clarity grading scale that the entire industry uses today. When it comes to natural diamonds, GIA is the undisputed authority.
GIA is known for their consistency and conservative grading. A GIA VS2 is a VS2 anywhere in the world. This consistency protects buyers and makes GIA-certified diamonds the most trusted and liquid stones on the resale market.
For natural diamonds, especially above 0.50ct, we exclusively source GIA-certified stones. The cost of a natural diamond is too significant to trust to a lesser laboratory.
Our Standard
GIA certified for all natural diamonds above 0.50ct
IGI — International Gemological Institute
The Industry Standard for Lab-Grown Diamonds
IGI has become the leading grading laboratory for lab-grown diamonds and is widely accepted as the industry standard for this category. IGI was early to develop dedicated grading protocols for lab-grown stones and has built a strong reputation in this space.
Because lab-grown diamonds are significantly more affordable per carat than natural diamonds, the cost of an IGI certificate is proportionally appropriate. The additional cost of GIA certification for a lab diamond does not meaningfully improve the value proposition.
For lab-grown diamonds, we source IGI-certified stones. They are thoroughly graded, consistently reliable, and appropriate for the category.
Our Standard
IGI certified for all lab-grown diamonds
Never purchase a significant natural diamond without a GIA certificate. A certificate from an unknown or inconsistent laboratory is not a reliable representation of what you are buying. If a seller cannot provide a GIA report for a natural diamond, that alone is reason to walk away.
Common Questions
Diamond FAQ
The questions we hear most often during consultations.
Cut. Without question. A diamond with exceptional color and clarity will look dull if the cut is poor, because a bad cut traps light inside rather than reflecting it back to your eye. Conversely, a diamond with modest color and clarity grades can look stunning if the cut is exceptional. We always prioritize cut quality above all other factors when sourcing diamonds for clients.
Lab-grown diamonds are chemically and physically identical to natural diamonds. The difference is origin. Natural diamonds formed over billions of years underground. Lab-grown diamonds are created in a controlled environment in weeks. Natural diamonds are rarer, hold their value on resale markets, and carry a traditional story. Lab-grown diamonds offer the same optical beauty at a significantly lower price per carat, allowing buyers to maximize size and quality within a given budget. Both are real diamonds. The right choice depends entirely on your priorities and we help clients think through both options honestly.
For natural diamonds, yes. Absolutely. GIA invented diamond grading and is the most trusted laboratory in the world for natural diamonds. A GIA certificate ensures that the grades on your diamond report are accurate and consistent. For the investment a natural diamond represents, a GIA certificate is not optional. For lab-grown diamonds, IGI certification is the industry standard and what we use. It is reliable, well-respected, and appropriate for the category.
Elongated shapes are the most flattering for creating the appearance of longer, more slender fingers. Oval, pear, and marquise diamonds are the most effective for this purpose, with the marquise being the most dramatic. The longer the ratio of the stone, the stronger the elongating effect. Round and princess cuts are more neutral in this regard, neither elongating nor shortening the appearance of the finger.
Fluorescence is a diamond's reaction to ultraviolet light, causing it to emit a soft glow. In colorless and near-colorless diamonds, strong fluorescence can cause the stone to appear hazy or oily in sunlight, which contains UV rays. Beyond the visual effect, fluorescent diamonds are less desirable in the market, which reduces their resale value and limits your buyer pool if you ever wish to upgrade. At Sakaris Jewelers, we avoid fluorescence entirely when sourcing diamonds for our clients. The price discount offered on fluorescent stones is not, in our view, a worthwhile trade-off for a piece meant to last a lifetime.
Eye-clean means a diamond has no inclusions visible to the naked eye when viewed from a normal distance. This is arguably more important than the official clarity grade. A VS2 diamond that is eye-clean in person is a better choice than a VVS1 with an inclusion positioned directly under the table that catches the eye, even if the VVS1 has a technically higher grade. When we source diamonds for clients, we personally review every stone to confirm it is eye-clean regardless of what the certificate says.
The bow-tie effect is a dark shadow in the shape of a bow tie that appears across the center of some fancy-shaped diamonds, particularly ovals, pear shapes, and marquises. It is caused by light leakage through the pavilion in the center of the stone and is virtually impossible to eliminate entirely in elongated shapes. The key is degree. A faint, subtle bow-tie is normal and acceptable. A strong, dark bow-tie significantly detracts from the diamond's appearance. This is one of the most important reasons to work with a jeweler who personally reviews every stone before recommending it, rather than buying blindly online from a certificate alone.
Yes, significantly. White gold and platinum create a neutral backdrop that shows any yellow tint in a diamond more clearly, making color grade more visible. Yellow gold reflects warmth upward into the diamond, making near-colorless stones like G and H appear whiter than they would in white gold. Rose gold has a similar warming effect. This means a G color diamond in a yellow gold setting can look as white as a D in a white gold setting, while costing considerably less. We factor metal choice into our diamond recommendations during every consultation.
Depth percentage is the total height of a diamond expressed as a percentage of its diameter. It is one of the most overlooked specifications on a diamond certificate and one of the most important. A diamond with too high a depth percentage hides its weight below the girdle where it cannot be seen, making the stone appear smaller than its carat weight suggests and reducing light return. A diamond with too low a depth percentage leaks light through the bottom. The ideal depth percentage varies by shape but finding that sweet spot is part of what separates a brilliant, well-proportioned stone from a dull, lifeless one of the same carat weight.
Yes, and we encourage it. For in-person clients, we show you the loose diamond before any setting work begins so you can see it, hold it, and examine it. For remote clients, we present diamond options with detailed information and our personal assessment of each stone. We never set a diamond without your full approval of the stone itself. This is one of the important differences between working with a private jeweler versus purchasing a pre-set ring from a store or website.
Ready to Apply This Knowledge
Now that you know what to look for, let us find the right diamond together.
Every diamond we source is hand-selected against everything covered on this page. When you are ready to start, we are here.
Or call us at (239) 293-6348
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